98 Race car

Rabbit · **Posted:** 31 Aug 2009 16:48

The tie will be replaced with a bigger one soon that cost just under $20 and hold more than the weight of the car.

Why? as it was cheaper than the smaller ones and can support more than the weight of the car. will make a good tow rope if i need to too.

Bart · **Posted:** 03 Sep 2009 13:34

Where did you get the rally tie down from?

DRTDVL · **Posted:** 03 Sep 2009 13:42

Bart: Cheap way... 3x harness eyebolts... and then use some strapping...

Rabbit · **Posted:** 03 Sep 2009 20:29

Yup a single rachet tie cut into a short section for the top and a longer bit tied in a loop for the bottom. you just remove the hook and use the loop. The smaller straps just slide off the hooks.

The new 2" one is a motorbike tie down from the warehouse for $19.99 fluro yellow and in a black plastic holster thing. That one has big double hooks folded over and welded into one fatter one so the strap can't come off.

Its same as GENUINE Rally car ones, as thats what the rally shops up here do.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 18 Sep 2009 23:00

Well it was back together last weekend and oh so shiny. Looks like new with 4-6 coats (got lazy on the roof and front bumper) of Canuba wax on it. Water beads and runs off it just like the glass with rain-x. Should really have got some photos while it was clean.

Its seems to still go really well and after the ecu is reset it goes almost silent at idle. To the point you have to put your ear to the bonnet to hear it at all. Still after a trip to taupo its back to a quiet burble at idle and lots of noise when driving along. Bart heard it coming a few streets away even with nana driving leading DRTDVL with his tow vechicle and trailered race car.

Added a SFC fuel controller that been around for ages. Not tuned yet, but i think the delay in signal makes it a bit leaner and raspy sounding which isn't too bad.

This weekend should see:
a cover for it so it doesn't get so dusty in the underground parking
the gear shift raised 4cm or so and the interor consoles reinstalled
maybe some more painting to finish off the damaged area by the rear arch

It needs a hole in whats left of the factory pipe welded up so it maybe easier to just get a new exhaust done from scratch and that will make more room at the rear for a difuser try. I may try for a side exit, since the floor pan has that strange indent on the passengers side just in front of the rear wheel that always begged to have one there. If that fails then a short muffler that doesn't go across the back of the car will have to do.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 20 Sep 2009 20:22

Well the gearshift got raised on saturday but i've just been towed home by a Pug.

The battery acid had leaked onto the clutch line and its burst. Lucky it was in a carpark that it actually popped and had just been weaping, most likely all day.

The shifter is only up 4cm but its alot nicer to drive with.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 24 Sep 2009 12:28

Well $65 ($50 for the custom replacement line and $15 for fluid) and an hour later the clutch line has been replaced and bleed through.

The clutch is so soft and travel too short that i'll have to adjust the clutch pedal, and at worst get some other fluid that has a bit more feel to it.

I had the line made a bit different to clear its surroundings a bit more.

I'm also going to have a go at a clutch switch to make launch controller out of the ecu (see this topic)

Jarred · **Posted:** 25 Sep 2009 20:47

See that link above for a clutch switch idea :wink:

Rabbit · **Posted:** 17 Oct 2009 14:52

Well the acid form the battery has caused another problem with the help of a large stone or bit of metal. the gearbox inspection plate sealant has started to leak fluid.

Only 100ml or so leaked out from the looks of the amount left and it been pulled apart and cleaned up. Just waiting for it to dry and then i can refill the box. Gears look mint still, and the fluid is still quite good just a bit discoloured.

luck I found it while changing the oil or it could have been a big mess. i think it actually happened on the way to get oil.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 18 Jan 2010 21:49

SFC removed a few weeks back as i think the wiring was working loose. ralliart gearknob fitted after the old leather top started to fall apart.

Gearbox is going well but will redo the clutch fluid again soon as it cheap nasty stuff and a bit spongy.

A few other things should be happening soon.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 08 Apr 2010 18:19

New clutch master fitted so at least the car now moves by itself again

New clutch waiting

Final drive 5:1 here tomorrow

New jamex silver 6 point harness purchased, old one expired in feb :oops:

at least my motorsport licence only lapsed last week :roll:

Plastic trim and roof lining fell out

Doors stripped of everything (no more stereo) that black goo crap all removed

No clock

main dash skin only. need to add lighter outlet so can run GPS when required

rear wiper removed

All rear wiring no longer required stripped inc speaker wiring

Other things left:
Wind up windows from 4wd car waiting
remove centeral locking
remove dash swap with other car and flock non airbag dash
rear washer to be wired as passenger water jet. Factory one to be drivers only to save water
sound deadening to be removed
battery kill switch
battery in boot? (already have a sealed one)
AC to be removed

:evil:

The only issue now is the whole delooming thing, it takes forever. So much tape and so many small plastic clips need to be removed. :evil:

Rabbit · **Posted:** 09 Apr 2010 12:34

Have put rear wiper spray tube to passengers nozzle. It works really well, even with the massive tube still coiled up and tucked away.
Since there is twice the water going to the drivers side now it doesnt have to share a pump its far better at cleaning.

There is even some spare hose clips under the bonnet to hold the second hose in place.

Now I only have to fugure out how to get the rear wiper spray signal to move the front wipers automatically. So i can move the switches to the passengers side or center console.

Hatch pull cable removed and i will join it the the fuel filler lever later so you can pull either to open the fuel filler.

Also need to get some paintable silicon to fill in all the holes that are empty from removal of things and vent to the underside of the car.

More loom and plastic guides removed.

More things to do:
New harnesses fitted except crotch strp as it needs more mounting points. I think under the front sent mounting bolt may have to do.
drill passengers side and mount final eye bolt for harness

Rabbit · **Posted:** 10 Apr 2010 20:26

AZAM RS wrote:

Mr rabbit its that exzaust thermal wrap that u used to wrap ur filter piping ?

Yes, I had so much left over from the headers and te pipe is alloy.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 10 Apr 2010 20:46

New Sparco Evo2 plus seat vs the old racepro 101
A little wide for me but the height is so much better.
Only downside is the old mounts had a bar to mount the 5/6 points, now I have to make something else

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Rabbit · **Posted:** 11 Apr 2010 21:19

They are a prick to fit, the rails are not parallel like most seats. The back is something like 350mm the front is 390mm, but the rails are slotted so its helps.

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98 Race car

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