98 Race car

Rabbit · **Posted:** 27 Mar 2007 11:46

Opps, only 500km of the pipe sitting on the heat wrap and the pipes has destroyed the heat wrap. Though a cable tie and its now held clear

mitserwilko · **Posted:** 28 Mar 2007 01:33

this is a really nice job the car looks savage mate and what did you do with the little black box that was where the catch tank is now??

Rabbit · **Posted:** 28 Mar 2007 10:04

It fell out :lol:

Nah you remove it all the way to the throttlebody and fold the last 2" long tube in half and cable tie it so its sealed. There are 2 10mm bolts behind the manifold that holds the pipework back there you need to remove too.

On the other end of the canister I have a little breather filter on the fuel breather line. thats the shiny thing under the wrapped intake. You don't have to have a filter as its the air pressure out from the fuel tank. Though the huge number of raod work over here it seemed like a good idea to stop stray crap getting in.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 03 Apr 2007 15:35

Updated first post with my first bit of rice.

Also a new tint strip put in as i'm sick of driving back from BOP with the sun in my eyes. The only other change is the fire extingusher is now a metal bracket one since you aren't ment to have plastic mounts in cars.

Oh yeah the cat fell out after the bigger throttlebody and the 205/50r15 a539s went on since the old C-Drives are now slicks and it was to tail happy in the rain.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 10 Apr 2007 14:41

New ducting to drop intake temp, mostly dryer parts and cable ties.

Duct end, cooling the filter and the battery

Alloy plate with dryer vent plate :lol:

Duct opening that may need to be cut a little more. You can see the new yokohama A539 fronts that replaced the worn out C-Drives, as the WOF is due :cry:

Cameron · **Posted:** 10 Apr 2007 20:03

Yokohama A539 = Good choice of tyre :wink:

HITAIL · **Posted:** 12 Apr 2007 12:12

would be interesting to see what your dyno plot looks like on a hub dyno instead of a rolling road..

i find it hard to see how a rolling road can pick up the actual changes in torque as it already has so much mommentum in the machine itself

grego0o · **Posted:** 26 Feb 2008 17:27

do you need a cert. for a manual conversion?!

Cameron · **Posted:** 26 Feb 2008 21:49

Nah you dont need a cert for a manual conversion on a car that came factory with a manual option :wink:

I will get a part number of the foglamp switch tomorrow and let you know

Rabbit · **Posted:** 29 Aug 2009 00:16

Well after attempting to avoid doing more to the car (and it not needing anything but regular driving/abuse), its in a few bits again and up on stands. Mainly as the 1 year old century battery pissed acid all over the chassis rail and it had to be stripped back to the bare metal and be repainted. The bumpers are both off and bits are being cleaned up all over the place. Even the dent and missing paint that the first owner put on it 5 years ago is getting fixed!

The gear shift will be raised soon, and a sealed gell cell battery from DRTDVL's collection may find its way into the rear of the car as well. Oh and some cheap rear speakers and maybe a headunit new enought to support MP3.

Along with a more legal mounting of the full sized spare wheel. Which it turns out rubs very badly on the rear as the guards aren't pumped like they where on the old black car it came from.

I can't currently make up my mind to either sell it and start another project or push this one further.

Anyone got an good offer to sway me into selling?

Damian · **Posted:** 29 Aug 2009 00:36

Holy Crap, it's Rabbit! I had to refresh the page 'cause I saw your name and thought i'd done some obscure search...

Cam and Rabbit back in the same month...amazing

Cameron · **Posted:** 29 Aug 2009 12:38

Keep it and attend trackdays/dragdays

Rabbit · **Posted:** 29 Aug 2009 21:17

Cameron wrote:

Keep it and attend trackdays/dragdays

Yeah I want to get a dedicated track car. No friendly bits at all.

Turns out it needs just about all those little black clips replaced. Half of them are damaged in someway, all the ones in the arches have been stoned to death. It always amazesmehow many little crappy bolts and clips there are in cars.

Got some new tricks to post up from the boot/tyre well.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 29 Aug 2009 21:49

Rally style ratchet tie down spare wheel got added ages ago but now is actulally strongly mounted thanks to the rear bumper coming off

A easy system with a ratchet and short 20cm strap to the center rear seat bolt. Then a loose loop around the bolts mounted like the image(and links) below pulled up into a big Y over the tyre. I made a loop and only pulled half the loop up so the other half pulls the tyre forward so it cant get out between the straps.

Using harness bolt through strap mounts
Using harness eye bolts
I used the first option as i have heaps of spare ones and the eye bolts are for the passenger side.

Rabbit · **Posted:** 30 Aug 2009 16:03

Current state: Jack stands and chocks.

The black is the old repaint from when i first got the car and the bumper didn't fit well as it'd been backed into a fence and needed some work.

The left side where the jack clamp is spot welded and had a little new rust so its now white again with rust kill primer. Looks like a bit of a design flaw as the welds take all the jack force and make small tears in the metal. Really needs some bracing in the inside under the bracket.

A few more lunch hours during the week and it should be ready for next weekends trip to pukekohe.

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98 Race car

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